On my last day in Puno (Lake Titicaca) I decided that in Arequipa I would take a tour to Colca Canyon where one can see Andean condors flying. This tour could be done in a day where one leaves Arequipa at 2 am and returns by 5 pm, but one young couple of college kids who did this said it was insane, so I opted for a two day tour which turned out to be a great idea for many reasons.
On Sunday morning I was picked up in a 12 seater van. My compatriots were a Brazilian couple, a threesome from Belgium, a couple from Romania, and two young female students from Quebec City, Canada who had done some volunteer work in Lima. In addition we had our guide and the driver, so it was a tight fit. I got to sit in front with the driver and sometimes also the guide, but it was much more comfortable han being squeezed in the other seats. Because of a bit of an altercation between the Romanian man and the guide about the quality of the vehicle provided we did not hit the road until about 9:30 am
We headed out for about a four hour ride through majestic mountains on some very rough roads with stops at scenic overlooks and in a couple of small towns. At every stop we would encounter local inhabitants selling their wares, mostly woolen and alpaca clothing, ceramics, wood carvings and some jewelry.
Our lunch stop along the way provided an excellent buffet, with chicken, alpaca beef, etc. and the usual side dishes of rice, potatoes and various vegetables in different sauces. On the way we hit an altitude of about 14,900 feet which is 400 feet higher than when, as a young man, I hiked up Mount Whitney in the California Sierras. That peak was only 14,496 feet.
On arrival at our destination at about 3 pm we were dropped off at various hotels and told to be ready to go to the hot springs at 4 pm. My room was freezing, and I turned on a space heater hoping that the chill would be gone by the time i returned. All of us went to the hot springs and, except for one incident to be described, we had a great time for two hours relaxing in an outdoor pool and drinking pisco sours and beer.
The one unfortunate incident occurred when the Romanian fellow left the pool and had a dizzy spell. He fell backward hitting his head on the stone walkway and had to be taken to the hospital for stitches. He seemed to be recovered by the next morning and he and his wife joined us for the trip to see the condors.
After two hours in the hot water we all were taken to our respective hotels and told to be ready at 7 pm for dinner and a show. This show turned out to be a delight. On stage six male musicians played guitar, mandolin??, drums. pan pipes, and flutes. We were also treated to female and male dancers who periodically grabbed audience members to join in the dance.
After the show I returned to my still chilled room, took a hot shower, and climbed under about seven blankets. A quick bit of reading and I fell asleep knowing that I would get a 5:30 wake up call for the trip to the condors.
As expected at 5:30 there was a loud knocking at my door,since the rooms had no phones. Another quick hot shower, a barely adequate breakfast of coffee, and cold bread with butter and marmalade, and we were off.
We got to the condor crossing and joined about 100 other tourists waiting for the bids to begin their flight. At about 8:30 am the first condor rose from the canyon
soon to be joined by at least 20 others soaring around, and slowing climbing to greater altitudes as the air currents continued to strengthen.
I took about 50 photos, none of which would win even an honorable mention, but just seeing these flying machines was enough of a reward.
About 9:30 the birds had disappeared and just before 10 am we climbed into our vehicle for the trip back to Arequipa. Again a few stops including another delicious lunch, and by 5 pm I was glad to be back.
A quick hot shower revived me, and I wandered down to the main plaza and onto some nearby streets with many shops, restaurants, and hordes of people. I found one of the restaurants that Allen had recommended, and enjoyed a repast of grilled alpaca, potatoes, sauteed carrots, green beans and red peppers, and a glass of red wine that equalledt the top Oregon wines.
Again an early night since I wanted to see the Monasterio de la Santa Catalina and the Plaza de Armes (main plaza) in the daylight and had to be at the airport at 11 am.
Tuesday morning,the Monasterio opened at 8 am and I was there about 5 minutes later. This Spanish creation covered several city blocks, but was isolated from the town by high walls. The inhabitants were all cloistered women who, once they entered, did not interact with the outside world again except through small portals like revolving doors except they were totally opaque. If something had to be exchanged like a letter, the vertical wooden slats would be rotated.
After two hours of exploring the different cells, sitting rooms, kitchens, and quite pleasant gardens, I went through the museum which contained many 17th century religious paintings and some statuary. Many of the paintings were of the Cusqueña style, painted by indigenous artists, who, Beth had pointed out earlier, blended Catholicism with subtle additions from their former beliefs. Then it was off to the Plaza de Armas for a few quick photos and back to the hotel to catch a taxi to the airport.
The one hour flight was pleasant, but the taxi ride through Lima took over a half hour, and the pollution level made the trip miserable. So I holed up in the hotel for supper and an evening of TV and reading.
Tuesday, 16 June 2009
Sunday, 14 June 2009
Friday, June 12, 2009
I finally got to sleep in, since I had no early tour the nezt morning. But I did take a wonderful afternoon tour to a place called Silhastani. The excellent guide talked about the burial tombs there which unfortunately are wearing away fairly rapldly.
The trip up was not too exciting except for spotting herds of llama and alpaca, and one large cara cara sitting on a post. We also saw small working farms where the curtilege was defined by stone walls, not the smooth stones of the Incas, but much smaller, random-sized rocks piled on top of each other to a height of about 2-3 feet without mortor in most cases.
One set of tombs were ñarge circular structures perhaps 20 feet in diameter that were worn down to a stone or two high and were pre-Inca. Then there were taller. smaller-diameter circular tombs (maybe 10 feet in diameter) that extended up about 30 feet. One was half fallen away and another was being restored. The guide, a young man, considered this a very sacred place, and he said that even though he was Catholic, he felt more and more that the earth was sacred. He was a true environmentalist who wanted people to live in harmony with nature and not continually exploit it.
After looking at the outside of the tombs, we rested on a lake shore that had an island in the middle, the island being a refuge for about 100 of the endangered vicuñas. After resting, we headed back toward our vehicle, passing a woman with a baby vicuña that we could pet and photgraph for a sole (about 33 cents).
On the drive back we stopped at one of the farms and were invited in. We were offered moka (sp??) tea which is a kind of mint and is supposed to be good for stomach and head aches. We were also given potatoes with an edible clay used like we would butter a piece of bread. And finally we tasted some delicious fresh cheese. I asked whether thay make cheese from the llama- and alpaca milk. She said no, but they do use the milk.
Besides the llamas, alpacas, and cows on the farm, they raised guinea pigs which they kept in a small stone circular enclosure with a miniature stone house for the rodents. We all gave a small donation for the food and hospitality. Then, like everywhere else. they had goods to sell. Some of our group made small purchases. I did not since my suitcase is bulging.
After that we headed back to Puno, and for me a relaxed evening as I knew I had to get up by 6 am to catch an early bus to Arequipa.
The trip up was not too exciting except for spotting herds of llama and alpaca, and one large cara cara sitting on a post. We also saw small working farms where the curtilege was defined by stone walls, not the smooth stones of the Incas, but much smaller, random-sized rocks piled on top of each other to a height of about 2-3 feet without mortor in most cases.
One set of tombs were ñarge circular structures perhaps 20 feet in diameter that were worn down to a stone or two high and were pre-Inca. Then there were taller. smaller-diameter circular tombs (maybe 10 feet in diameter) that extended up about 30 feet. One was half fallen away and another was being restored. The guide, a young man, considered this a very sacred place, and he said that even though he was Catholic, he felt more and more that the earth was sacred. He was a true environmentalist who wanted people to live in harmony with nature and not continually exploit it.
After looking at the outside of the tombs, we rested on a lake shore that had an island in the middle, the island being a refuge for about 100 of the endangered vicuñas. After resting, we headed back toward our vehicle, passing a woman with a baby vicuña that we could pet and photgraph for a sole (about 33 cents).
On the drive back we stopped at one of the farms and were invited in. We were offered moka (sp??) tea which is a kind of mint and is supposed to be good for stomach and head aches. We were also given potatoes with an edible clay used like we would butter a piece of bread. And finally we tasted some delicious fresh cheese. I asked whether thay make cheese from the llama- and alpaca milk. She said no, but they do use the milk.
Besides the llamas, alpacas, and cows on the farm, they raised guinea pigs which they kept in a small stone circular enclosure with a miniature stone house for the rodents. We all gave a small donation for the food and hospitality. Then, like everywhere else. they had goods to sell. Some of our group made small purchases. I did not since my suitcase is bulging.
After that we headed back to Puno, and for me a relaxed evening as I knew I had to get up by 6 am to catch an early bus to Arequipa.
Friday, 12 June 2009
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Another exciting day ahead as we head to Machu Picchu, but they (whoever they are) sure make it difficult for the tourist. We left at about 6 am to take a taxi to the next town about 5 miles away to catch the train. The train used to come to Cusco, but does not any more.
We got to the train station early and waited close to an hour before boarding. Then it was about a three hour ride mostly through a very scenic, narrow mountain valley following the Urubamba River (also called the Villcanota River). After the train ride we then had to catch a bus and finally got to the gate for the ruins.
How does one describe one of the wonders of the world. The Incas were not the greatest artists in pre-hispanic South America, but they were great engineers, astronomers, organizers, and warriors. As to being warriors, one guide later said that they were the first culture to not practice human sacrifice. Most or all others before them did practice it, and decapitation seemed to be the preferred method.
When we entered we had two choices, either go to the right directly into the many buildings or to the left which was to a high point called the guard house. We all went to the left which meant climbing a few hundred not really flat steps, but it was well worth it as one gets views that are most famous for travel brochures and other promotions.
We could see to the left where the royalty and high officials resided and to the right where the general populace (laborers and craftsmen??) were located. We went down into this labyrinth and could confirm from the quality of the stonework where the different populations resided. The stones of the royalty and the religious areas were highly polished and fit together without a crack, but in other areas the stonework though still quite good was not of the same quality.
We did not hire a guide for this ruin: Allen and Beth provided an informative narrative that had much more information than I could retain.
We saw how the builders had created little canals and fountains in the stonework to bring water to the different areas from springs. We saw one room which had a window that looked into anther room with a window and so on so that one could look in the first window and see through the last because they were so well lined up.
We made it through the site in about three hours which was just right in time for getting back to the train and another ride through beautiful mountain scenery.
Then it was back to the hotel and later a walk to the Israeli restaurant where I had a bowl of chicken soup because the Cipro antibiotic I started that afternoon had not yet gotten ahead of the latest intestinal irritation. That would take another full day, but the Cipro eventually did the trick.
Sorry for no photos. I am off to lunch and an afternoon tour, and then tomorrow it will be a 5-1/2 hour bus ride to Arequipa where there is an interesting monastery and hopefully an overnight trip to Colca canyon where I am told I will be guaranteed to see flying Andean condors.
We got to the train station early and waited close to an hour before boarding. Then it was about a three hour ride mostly through a very scenic, narrow mountain valley following the Urubamba River (also called the Villcanota River). After the train ride we then had to catch a bus and finally got to the gate for the ruins.
How does one describe one of the wonders of the world. The Incas were not the greatest artists in pre-hispanic South America, but they were great engineers, astronomers, organizers, and warriors. As to being warriors, one guide later said that they were the first culture to not practice human sacrifice. Most or all others before them did practice it, and decapitation seemed to be the preferred method.
When we entered we had two choices, either go to the right directly into the many buildings or to the left which was to a high point called the guard house. We all went to the left which meant climbing a few hundred not really flat steps, but it was well worth it as one gets views that are most famous for travel brochures and other promotions.
We could see to the left where the royalty and high officials resided and to the right where the general populace (laborers and craftsmen??) were located. We went down into this labyrinth and could confirm from the quality of the stonework where the different populations resided. The stones of the royalty and the religious areas were highly polished and fit together without a crack, but in other areas the stonework though still quite good was not of the same quality.
We did not hire a guide for this ruin: Allen and Beth provided an informative narrative that had much more information than I could retain.
We saw how the builders had created little canals and fountains in the stonework to bring water to the different areas from springs. We saw one room which had a window that looked into anther room with a window and so on so that one could look in the first window and see through the last because they were so well lined up.
We made it through the site in about three hours which was just right in time for getting back to the train and another ride through beautiful mountain scenery.
Then it was back to the hotel and later a walk to the Israeli restaurant where I had a bowl of chicken soup because the Cipro antibiotic I started that afternoon had not yet gotten ahead of the latest intestinal irritation. That would take another full day, but the Cipro eventually did the trick.
Sorry for no photos. I am off to lunch and an afternoon tour, and then tomorrow it will be a 5-1/2 hour bus ride to Arequipa where there is an interesting monastery and hopefully an overnight trip to Colca canyon where I am told I will be guaranteed to see flying Andean condors.
Tuesday, 9 June 2009
Monday, June 8
Today was another busy day. We got up, ate breakfast at the hotel, which always has a stunning view of the city and the mountains surrounding it and then found a taxi to drive us to the Pisac ruins and the market. This was a 40 minute taxi ride and I got the front seat while the other four squeezed into the back. The countryise was filled with mountains and deep canyons.
Ws did quite a bit of hiking through the ruins and got more fantastic view of the mountains, valleys, small towns and the Urubamba river which was sacred to the Incas representing the serpent. Hiking is tiring at this altitude, especially up and down many stairs cut out of the stone and not very even, but I was the most tired of all of us, but I am the oldest.
Pisac has a temple of the sun and one of the moon. They did astronomical observations to tell when to plant, and when to have various ceremonies. The information was communicated back to Cusco which is the center of the Inca world. Try typing Pisac ruins and if nothing comes up add the word Peru or Inca and hopefully you will get some great photos.
After the ruins, we went to lunch in the town of Pisac and then through the market and found so many increibly beautiful things, it was difficult nnot to spend a fortune, but I have limited space in my suitcase.
Our taxi driver who waited for us the entire day took us back to our Cusco hotel, another day well spent, but very tiring.
For me for dinner it was a bowl of chicken soup at an Israeli restaurant near the hotel.
Ws did quite a bit of hiking through the ruins and got more fantastic view of the mountains, valleys, small towns and the Urubamba river which was sacred to the Incas representing the serpent. Hiking is tiring at this altitude, especially up and down many stairs cut out of the stone and not very even, but I was the most tired of all of us, but I am the oldest.
Pisac has a temple of the sun and one of the moon. They did astronomical observations to tell when to plant, and when to have various ceremonies. The information was communicated back to Cusco which is the center of the Inca world. Try typing Pisac ruins and if nothing comes up add the word Peru or Inca and hopefully you will get some great photos.
After the ruins, we went to lunch in the town of Pisac and then through the market and found so many increibly beautiful things, it was difficult nnot to spend a fortune, but I have limited space in my suitcase.
Our taxi driver who waited for us the entire day took us back to our Cusco hotel, another day well spent, but very tiring.
For me for dinner it was a bowl of chicken soup at an Israeli restaurant near the hotel.
Saturday, 6 June 2009
Thursday,June 4
Pam and Kayla arrived last night, and we all met for breakfast in the morning. We got a slow start and walked around to orient the new arrivals and also to a very nice shopping market, which I will probably return to on my last day in Lima. That way I dont have to carry my purchases all over Peru.
After browsing through the market we headed to a ruin of the Lima culture with a small museum. The ruin has a large pyramid, about 30 feet high and is currently being excavated. Ir also has areas where the people lived and stored foods and met for religious ceremonies.
We arrived just before the start of an English language tour. We were told that the people worshiped the shark unlike many other pre Inca cultures that worshipped the feline (puma), snake and bird (condor). This made sense since the ruin was so close to the ocean.
We also saw a couple of the Peruvian hairless dogs called Biringo (meaning naked). They look a bit like a large chihuahuambut they are much betterlooking, and I never heard one yap. Their claim to fame is that they have a very high body temperature and were held by people with arthritis or simply to warm the lap or placed on the feet as foot warmers.
We did a quick tour of the small museum which had some very qood quality pots. This culture would make large pots and then smash them in religious rituals, so the multitude of shards had to be reassembled for showing in the museum.
We took two cabs back to the hotel and then after resting we walked to the ocean so that Pam and Kayla could see the shore and the water. Then on the walk back we stopped at a Chinese restaurant with so-so food. A couple of us tolerated the dinners and a couple had some minor intestinal problems - nothing serious.
Then it was off to `pack for Beth, Allen and me for our flight to Cuzco. Pam and Kayla would be leaving early the day following us.
After browsing through the market we headed to a ruin of the Lima culture with a small museum. The ruin has a large pyramid, about 30 feet high and is currently being excavated. Ir also has areas where the people lived and stored foods and met for religious ceremonies.
We arrived just before the start of an English language tour. We were told that the people worshiped the shark unlike many other pre Inca cultures that worshipped the feline (puma), snake and bird (condor). This made sense since the ruin was so close to the ocean.
We also saw a couple of the Peruvian hairless dogs called Biringo (meaning naked). They look a bit like a large chihuahuambut they are much betterlooking, and I never heard one yap. Their claim to fame is that they have a very high body temperature and were held by people with arthritis or simply to warm the lap or placed on the feet as foot warmers.
We did a quick tour of the small museum which had some very qood quality pots. This culture would make large pots and then smash them in religious rituals, so the multitude of shards had to be reassembled for showing in the museum.
We took two cabs back to the hotel and then after resting we walked to the ocean so that Pam and Kayla could see the shore and the water. Then on the walk back we stopped at a Chinese restaurant with so-so food. A couple of us tolerated the dinners and a couple had some minor intestinal problems - nothing serious.
Then it was off to `pack for Beth, Allen and me for our flight to Cuzco. Pam and Kayla would be leaving early the day following us.
Friday, 5 June 2009
Wednesday, June 3
We are back at the Hotel Senorial in the Miraflores district of Lima. Allen has one or two museums on the docket which will show many more artifacts from the Mochi and other periods and geographic areas. Our first stop was the Museo Larco Herrera, named after the person who established the museum. Unlike the best museum in Chiclayo where no photos could be taken, this museum allows photos but no flash. It also showed stunning artifacts, the most realistic being the ones from the Mochi culture in the north that existed from about AD 100 to about AD 800. I am sure you could find photos of the museum contents on the web.
Also the garden of this museum was exquisite. One first goes through a wrought iron gate and up a path that has many colored bouganvillas along both sides, red, yellow, white, and purple. At several places there are cacti in pots, the most interesting being one called Cactus Monstruo. This entire cactus looks like the tops of some suhuaro cacti with rounded grotesque bulbous limbs.
We took a cab an spent from about 11 am to close to 4 pm in the museum eating lunch in the high quality, high cost museum cafe. My meal consisted of a delicious seafood soup. As always, Allen and Beth shared a meal.
After this museum, we walked about 20 minutes to the Museo de Antropologia ... by following a blue line on the sidewalk. We got there about 50 minutes before closing, so Beth and ALlen gave me a whirlwind tour which by that time of day was fine with me.
Then it was a cab ride back to the hotel. After resting we walked to the ocean which is about a mile from our hotel. Walking there we saw perhaps a dozen hang gliders enjoying the ocean winds. At the ocean there is a fancy shopping center with many high priced shops shops and many fast food joints and higher quality restaurants. There was the ubiquitous Mickey D, and the Colonel, but also a Hooters and a Tony Roma. We chose a Peruvian restaurant overlooking the ocean. I can´t remember what I ate, but it was enjoyable, as usual.
Afterwards it was back to the hotel to wait for Pam and Kayla.
Also the garden of this museum was exquisite. One first goes through a wrought iron gate and up a path that has many colored bouganvillas along both sides, red, yellow, white, and purple. At several places there are cacti in pots, the most interesting being one called Cactus Monstruo. This entire cactus looks like the tops of some suhuaro cacti with rounded grotesque bulbous limbs.
We took a cab an spent from about 11 am to close to 4 pm in the museum eating lunch in the high quality, high cost museum cafe. My meal consisted of a delicious seafood soup. As always, Allen and Beth shared a meal.
After this museum, we walked about 20 minutes to the Museo de Antropologia ... by following a blue line on the sidewalk. We got there about 50 minutes before closing, so Beth and ALlen gave me a whirlwind tour which by that time of day was fine with me.
Then it was a cab ride back to the hotel. After resting we walked to the ocean which is about a mile from our hotel. Walking there we saw perhaps a dozen hang gliders enjoying the ocean winds. At the ocean there is a fancy shopping center with many high priced shops shops and many fast food joints and higher quality restaurants. There was the ubiquitous Mickey D, and the Colonel, but also a Hooters and a Tony Roma. We chose a Peruvian restaurant overlooking the ocean. I can´t remember what I ate, but it was enjoyable, as usual.
Afterwards it was back to the hotel to wait for Pam and Kayla.
Wednesday, 3 June 2009
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
This was again a day of travel on a long distance bus. We ate our breakast early and got to the bus station at 7:30 a.m. for an 8 am departure.
Originally this was suppoed to be a 10 houe ride to Lima, but it took almost 13 hours because the govenment had lowered the speed limits as a measure to cut down on auto accidents.
Although the seats were comfortable and they served us a small breakfast and lunch, the ride for me was unenjoyable. They showed two movies, one of which I had seen and I really could not watch them without turning my neck to an uncomfortable position because of the position of the monitor.
In addition, the socked in sky never lifted, so I was quite glad to get off the bus and head to the hotel. We checked in and caught a quick supper at the hotel, then it was off to bed for a better day ahead.
Originally this was suppoed to be a 10 houe ride to Lima, but it took almost 13 hours because the govenment had lowered the speed limits as a measure to cut down on auto accidents.
Although the seats were comfortable and they served us a small breakfast and lunch, the ride for me was unenjoyable. They showed two movies, one of which I had seen and I really could not watch them without turning my neck to an uncomfortable position because of the position of the monitor.
In addition, the socked in sky never lifted, so I was quite glad to get off the bus and head to the hotel. We checked in and caught a quick supper at the hotel, then it was off to bed for a better day ahead.
Monday, 1 June 2009
Sunday, May 31, Still in Chiclayo
Sunday was a day of rest, sort of. In the late morning we walked to the Tour agency and paid for the next day's tour. At some point we saw a parade that featured a statue of the virgin that swayed back and forth. Then we had a nice lunch again at Hebrons Restaurant. We drank Chicha Morada, the drink I think tastes a bit like a mixture of plum and maybe pomegranate juice with a hint of cinnamin. After lunch Allen and Beth returned to the hotel to relax and take care of their colds.
I walked to and through two markets. The first, the Market Central, was like a typical market in Mexico with many small stalls on each side of narrow aisles selling all sorts of clothes, gadgets and food. The second was a larger market and was supposed to have some witch doctors (Los Bruges) that one could either buy medicines from or hire to do their magic cures, but I did not see any. So I walked back to my room and lazed around the rest of the afternoon.
In the evening we walked to restaurant featuring woodfired pizzas. We shared a vegetarian pizza and lemonade. The we returned to the hotel to prepare for an early morning getaway to the ecological reserve.
I walked to and through two markets. The first, the Market Central, was like a typical market in Mexico with many small stalls on each side of narrow aisles selling all sorts of clothes, gadgets and food. The second was a larger market and was supposed to have some witch doctors (Los Bruges) that one could either buy medicines from or hire to do their magic cures, but I did not see any. So I walked back to my room and lazed around the rest of the afternoon.
In the evening we walked to restaurant featuring woodfired pizzas. We shared a vegetarian pizza and lemonade. The we returned to the hotel to prepare for an early morning getaway to the ecological reserve.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)