On my last day in Puno (Lake Titicaca) I decided that in Arequipa I would take a tour to Colca Canyon where one can see Andean condors flying. This tour could be done in a day where one leaves Arequipa at 2 am and returns by 5 pm, but one young couple of college kids who did this said it was insane, so I opted for a two day tour which turned out to be a great idea for many reasons.
On Sunday morning I was picked up in a 12 seater van. My compatriots were a Brazilian couple, a threesome from Belgium, a couple from Romania, and two young female students from Quebec City, Canada who had done some volunteer work in Lima. In addition we had our guide and the driver, so it was a tight fit. I got to sit in front with the driver and sometimes also the guide, but it was much more comfortable han being squeezed in the other seats. Because of a bit of an altercation between the Romanian man and the guide about the quality of the vehicle provided we did not hit the road until about 9:30 am
We headed out for about a four hour ride through majestic mountains on some very rough roads with stops at scenic overlooks and in a couple of small towns. At every stop we would encounter local inhabitants selling their wares, mostly woolen and alpaca clothing, ceramics, wood carvings and some jewelry.
Our lunch stop along the way provided an excellent buffet, with chicken, alpaca beef, etc. and the usual side dishes of rice, potatoes and various vegetables in different sauces. On the way we hit an altitude of about 14,900 feet which is 400 feet higher than when, as a young man, I hiked up Mount Whitney in the California Sierras. That peak was only 14,496 feet.
On arrival at our destination at about 3 pm we were dropped off at various hotels and told to be ready to go to the hot springs at 4 pm. My room was freezing, and I turned on a space heater hoping that the chill would be gone by the time i returned. All of us went to the hot springs and, except for one incident to be described, we had a great time for two hours relaxing in an outdoor pool and drinking pisco sours and beer.
The one unfortunate incident occurred when the Romanian fellow left the pool and had a dizzy spell. He fell backward hitting his head on the stone walkway and had to be taken to the hospital for stitches. He seemed to be recovered by the next morning and he and his wife joined us for the trip to see the condors.
After two hours in the hot water we all were taken to our respective hotels and told to be ready at 7 pm for dinner and a show. This show turned out to be a delight. On stage six male musicians played guitar, mandolin??, drums. pan pipes, and flutes. We were also treated to female and male dancers who periodically grabbed audience members to join in the dance.
After the show I returned to my still chilled room, took a hot shower, and climbed under about seven blankets. A quick bit of reading and I fell asleep knowing that I would get a 5:30 wake up call for the trip to the condors.
As expected at 5:30 there was a loud knocking at my door,since the rooms had no phones. Another quick hot shower, a barely adequate breakfast of coffee, and cold bread with butter and marmalade, and we were off.
We got to the condor crossing and joined about 100 other tourists waiting for the bids to begin their flight. At about 8:30 am the first condor rose from the canyon
soon to be joined by at least 20 others soaring around, and slowing climbing to greater altitudes as the air currents continued to strengthen.
I took about 50 photos, none of which would win even an honorable mention, but just seeing these flying machines was enough of a reward.
About 9:30 the birds had disappeared and just before 10 am we climbed into our vehicle for the trip back to Arequipa. Again a few stops including another delicious lunch, and by 5 pm I was glad to be back.
A quick hot shower revived me, and I wandered down to the main plaza and onto some nearby streets with many shops, restaurants, and hordes of people. I found one of the restaurants that Allen had recommended, and enjoyed a repast of grilled alpaca, potatoes, sauteed carrots, green beans and red peppers, and a glass of red wine that equalledt the top Oregon wines.
Again an early night since I wanted to see the Monasterio de la Santa Catalina and the Plaza de Armes (main plaza) in the daylight and had to be at the airport at 11 am.
Tuesday morning,the Monasterio opened at 8 am and I was there about 5 minutes later. This Spanish creation covered several city blocks, but was isolated from the town by high walls. The inhabitants were all cloistered women who, once they entered, did not interact with the outside world again except through small portals like revolving doors except they were totally opaque. If something had to be exchanged like a letter, the vertical wooden slats would be rotated.
After two hours of exploring the different cells, sitting rooms, kitchens, and quite pleasant gardens, I went through the museum which contained many 17th century religious paintings and some statuary. Many of the paintings were of the Cusqueña style, painted by indigenous artists, who, Beth had pointed out earlier, blended Catholicism with subtle additions from their former beliefs. Then it was off to the Plaza de Armas for a few quick photos and back to the hotel to catch a taxi to the airport.
The one hour flight was pleasant, but the taxi ride through Lima took over a half hour, and the pollution level made the trip miserable. So I holed up in the hotel for supper and an evening of TV and reading.
Tuesday, 16 June 2009
Sunday, 14 June 2009
Friday, June 12, 2009
I finally got to sleep in, since I had no early tour the nezt morning. But I did take a wonderful afternoon tour to a place called Silhastani. The excellent guide talked about the burial tombs there which unfortunately are wearing away fairly rapldly.
The trip up was not too exciting except for spotting herds of llama and alpaca, and one large cara cara sitting on a post. We also saw small working farms where the curtilege was defined by stone walls, not the smooth stones of the Incas, but much smaller, random-sized rocks piled on top of each other to a height of about 2-3 feet without mortor in most cases.
One set of tombs were ñarge circular structures perhaps 20 feet in diameter that were worn down to a stone or two high and were pre-Inca. Then there were taller. smaller-diameter circular tombs (maybe 10 feet in diameter) that extended up about 30 feet. One was half fallen away and another was being restored. The guide, a young man, considered this a very sacred place, and he said that even though he was Catholic, he felt more and more that the earth was sacred. He was a true environmentalist who wanted people to live in harmony with nature and not continually exploit it.
After looking at the outside of the tombs, we rested on a lake shore that had an island in the middle, the island being a refuge for about 100 of the endangered vicuñas. After resting, we headed back toward our vehicle, passing a woman with a baby vicuña that we could pet and photgraph for a sole (about 33 cents).
On the drive back we stopped at one of the farms and were invited in. We were offered moka (sp??) tea which is a kind of mint and is supposed to be good for stomach and head aches. We were also given potatoes with an edible clay used like we would butter a piece of bread. And finally we tasted some delicious fresh cheese. I asked whether thay make cheese from the llama- and alpaca milk. She said no, but they do use the milk.
Besides the llamas, alpacas, and cows on the farm, they raised guinea pigs which they kept in a small stone circular enclosure with a miniature stone house for the rodents. We all gave a small donation for the food and hospitality. Then, like everywhere else. they had goods to sell. Some of our group made small purchases. I did not since my suitcase is bulging.
After that we headed back to Puno, and for me a relaxed evening as I knew I had to get up by 6 am to catch an early bus to Arequipa.
The trip up was not too exciting except for spotting herds of llama and alpaca, and one large cara cara sitting on a post. We also saw small working farms where the curtilege was defined by stone walls, not the smooth stones of the Incas, but much smaller, random-sized rocks piled on top of each other to a height of about 2-3 feet without mortor in most cases.
One set of tombs were ñarge circular structures perhaps 20 feet in diameter that were worn down to a stone or two high and were pre-Inca. Then there were taller. smaller-diameter circular tombs (maybe 10 feet in diameter) that extended up about 30 feet. One was half fallen away and another was being restored. The guide, a young man, considered this a very sacred place, and he said that even though he was Catholic, he felt more and more that the earth was sacred. He was a true environmentalist who wanted people to live in harmony with nature and not continually exploit it.
After looking at the outside of the tombs, we rested on a lake shore that had an island in the middle, the island being a refuge for about 100 of the endangered vicuñas. After resting, we headed back toward our vehicle, passing a woman with a baby vicuña that we could pet and photgraph for a sole (about 33 cents).
On the drive back we stopped at one of the farms and were invited in. We were offered moka (sp??) tea which is a kind of mint and is supposed to be good for stomach and head aches. We were also given potatoes with an edible clay used like we would butter a piece of bread. And finally we tasted some delicious fresh cheese. I asked whether thay make cheese from the llama- and alpaca milk. She said no, but they do use the milk.
Besides the llamas, alpacas, and cows on the farm, they raised guinea pigs which they kept in a small stone circular enclosure with a miniature stone house for the rodents. We all gave a small donation for the food and hospitality. Then, like everywhere else. they had goods to sell. Some of our group made small purchases. I did not since my suitcase is bulging.
After that we headed back to Puno, and for me a relaxed evening as I knew I had to get up by 6 am to catch an early bus to Arequipa.
Friday, 12 June 2009
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Another exciting day ahead as we head to Machu Picchu, but they (whoever they are) sure make it difficult for the tourist. We left at about 6 am to take a taxi to the next town about 5 miles away to catch the train. The train used to come to Cusco, but does not any more.
We got to the train station early and waited close to an hour before boarding. Then it was about a three hour ride mostly through a very scenic, narrow mountain valley following the Urubamba River (also called the Villcanota River). After the train ride we then had to catch a bus and finally got to the gate for the ruins.
How does one describe one of the wonders of the world. The Incas were not the greatest artists in pre-hispanic South America, but they were great engineers, astronomers, organizers, and warriors. As to being warriors, one guide later said that they were the first culture to not practice human sacrifice. Most or all others before them did practice it, and decapitation seemed to be the preferred method.
When we entered we had two choices, either go to the right directly into the many buildings or to the left which was to a high point called the guard house. We all went to the left which meant climbing a few hundred not really flat steps, but it was well worth it as one gets views that are most famous for travel brochures and other promotions.
We could see to the left where the royalty and high officials resided and to the right where the general populace (laborers and craftsmen??) were located. We went down into this labyrinth and could confirm from the quality of the stonework where the different populations resided. The stones of the royalty and the religious areas were highly polished and fit together without a crack, but in other areas the stonework though still quite good was not of the same quality.
We did not hire a guide for this ruin: Allen and Beth provided an informative narrative that had much more information than I could retain.
We saw how the builders had created little canals and fountains in the stonework to bring water to the different areas from springs. We saw one room which had a window that looked into anther room with a window and so on so that one could look in the first window and see through the last because they were so well lined up.
We made it through the site in about three hours which was just right in time for getting back to the train and another ride through beautiful mountain scenery.
Then it was back to the hotel and later a walk to the Israeli restaurant where I had a bowl of chicken soup because the Cipro antibiotic I started that afternoon had not yet gotten ahead of the latest intestinal irritation. That would take another full day, but the Cipro eventually did the trick.
Sorry for no photos. I am off to lunch and an afternoon tour, and then tomorrow it will be a 5-1/2 hour bus ride to Arequipa where there is an interesting monastery and hopefully an overnight trip to Colca canyon where I am told I will be guaranteed to see flying Andean condors.
We got to the train station early and waited close to an hour before boarding. Then it was about a three hour ride mostly through a very scenic, narrow mountain valley following the Urubamba River (also called the Villcanota River). After the train ride we then had to catch a bus and finally got to the gate for the ruins.
How does one describe one of the wonders of the world. The Incas were not the greatest artists in pre-hispanic South America, but they were great engineers, astronomers, organizers, and warriors. As to being warriors, one guide later said that they were the first culture to not practice human sacrifice. Most or all others before them did practice it, and decapitation seemed to be the preferred method.
When we entered we had two choices, either go to the right directly into the many buildings or to the left which was to a high point called the guard house. We all went to the left which meant climbing a few hundred not really flat steps, but it was well worth it as one gets views that are most famous for travel brochures and other promotions.
We could see to the left where the royalty and high officials resided and to the right where the general populace (laborers and craftsmen??) were located. We went down into this labyrinth and could confirm from the quality of the stonework where the different populations resided. The stones of the royalty and the religious areas were highly polished and fit together without a crack, but in other areas the stonework though still quite good was not of the same quality.
We did not hire a guide for this ruin: Allen and Beth provided an informative narrative that had much more information than I could retain.
We saw how the builders had created little canals and fountains in the stonework to bring water to the different areas from springs. We saw one room which had a window that looked into anther room with a window and so on so that one could look in the first window and see through the last because they were so well lined up.
We made it through the site in about three hours which was just right in time for getting back to the train and another ride through beautiful mountain scenery.
Then it was back to the hotel and later a walk to the Israeli restaurant where I had a bowl of chicken soup because the Cipro antibiotic I started that afternoon had not yet gotten ahead of the latest intestinal irritation. That would take another full day, but the Cipro eventually did the trick.
Sorry for no photos. I am off to lunch and an afternoon tour, and then tomorrow it will be a 5-1/2 hour bus ride to Arequipa where there is an interesting monastery and hopefully an overnight trip to Colca canyon where I am told I will be guaranteed to see flying Andean condors.
Tuesday, 9 June 2009
Monday, June 8
Today was another busy day. We got up, ate breakfast at the hotel, which always has a stunning view of the city and the mountains surrounding it and then found a taxi to drive us to the Pisac ruins and the market. This was a 40 minute taxi ride and I got the front seat while the other four squeezed into the back. The countryise was filled with mountains and deep canyons.
Ws did quite a bit of hiking through the ruins and got more fantastic view of the mountains, valleys, small towns and the Urubamba river which was sacred to the Incas representing the serpent. Hiking is tiring at this altitude, especially up and down many stairs cut out of the stone and not very even, but I was the most tired of all of us, but I am the oldest.
Pisac has a temple of the sun and one of the moon. They did astronomical observations to tell when to plant, and when to have various ceremonies. The information was communicated back to Cusco which is the center of the Inca world. Try typing Pisac ruins and if nothing comes up add the word Peru or Inca and hopefully you will get some great photos.
After the ruins, we went to lunch in the town of Pisac and then through the market and found so many increibly beautiful things, it was difficult nnot to spend a fortune, but I have limited space in my suitcase.
Our taxi driver who waited for us the entire day took us back to our Cusco hotel, another day well spent, but very tiring.
For me for dinner it was a bowl of chicken soup at an Israeli restaurant near the hotel.
Ws did quite a bit of hiking through the ruins and got more fantastic view of the mountains, valleys, small towns and the Urubamba river which was sacred to the Incas representing the serpent. Hiking is tiring at this altitude, especially up and down many stairs cut out of the stone and not very even, but I was the most tired of all of us, but I am the oldest.
Pisac has a temple of the sun and one of the moon. They did astronomical observations to tell when to plant, and when to have various ceremonies. The information was communicated back to Cusco which is the center of the Inca world. Try typing Pisac ruins and if nothing comes up add the word Peru or Inca and hopefully you will get some great photos.
After the ruins, we went to lunch in the town of Pisac and then through the market and found so many increibly beautiful things, it was difficult nnot to spend a fortune, but I have limited space in my suitcase.
Our taxi driver who waited for us the entire day took us back to our Cusco hotel, another day well spent, but very tiring.
For me for dinner it was a bowl of chicken soup at an Israeli restaurant near the hotel.
Saturday, 6 June 2009
Thursday,June 4
Pam and Kayla arrived last night, and we all met for breakfast in the morning. We got a slow start and walked around to orient the new arrivals and also to a very nice shopping market, which I will probably return to on my last day in Lima. That way I dont have to carry my purchases all over Peru.
After browsing through the market we headed to a ruin of the Lima culture with a small museum. The ruin has a large pyramid, about 30 feet high and is currently being excavated. Ir also has areas where the people lived and stored foods and met for religious ceremonies.
We arrived just before the start of an English language tour. We were told that the people worshiped the shark unlike many other pre Inca cultures that worshipped the feline (puma), snake and bird (condor). This made sense since the ruin was so close to the ocean.
We also saw a couple of the Peruvian hairless dogs called Biringo (meaning naked). They look a bit like a large chihuahuambut they are much betterlooking, and I never heard one yap. Their claim to fame is that they have a very high body temperature and were held by people with arthritis or simply to warm the lap or placed on the feet as foot warmers.
We did a quick tour of the small museum which had some very qood quality pots. This culture would make large pots and then smash them in religious rituals, so the multitude of shards had to be reassembled for showing in the museum.
We took two cabs back to the hotel and then after resting we walked to the ocean so that Pam and Kayla could see the shore and the water. Then on the walk back we stopped at a Chinese restaurant with so-so food. A couple of us tolerated the dinners and a couple had some minor intestinal problems - nothing serious.
Then it was off to `pack for Beth, Allen and me for our flight to Cuzco. Pam and Kayla would be leaving early the day following us.
After browsing through the market we headed to a ruin of the Lima culture with a small museum. The ruin has a large pyramid, about 30 feet high and is currently being excavated. Ir also has areas where the people lived and stored foods and met for religious ceremonies.
We arrived just before the start of an English language tour. We were told that the people worshiped the shark unlike many other pre Inca cultures that worshipped the feline (puma), snake and bird (condor). This made sense since the ruin was so close to the ocean.
We also saw a couple of the Peruvian hairless dogs called Biringo (meaning naked). They look a bit like a large chihuahuambut they are much betterlooking, and I never heard one yap. Their claim to fame is that they have a very high body temperature and were held by people with arthritis or simply to warm the lap or placed on the feet as foot warmers.
We did a quick tour of the small museum which had some very qood quality pots. This culture would make large pots and then smash them in religious rituals, so the multitude of shards had to be reassembled for showing in the museum.
We took two cabs back to the hotel and then after resting we walked to the ocean so that Pam and Kayla could see the shore and the water. Then on the walk back we stopped at a Chinese restaurant with so-so food. A couple of us tolerated the dinners and a couple had some minor intestinal problems - nothing serious.
Then it was off to `pack for Beth, Allen and me for our flight to Cuzco. Pam and Kayla would be leaving early the day following us.
Friday, 5 June 2009
Wednesday, June 3
We are back at the Hotel Senorial in the Miraflores district of Lima. Allen has one or two museums on the docket which will show many more artifacts from the Mochi and other periods and geographic areas. Our first stop was the Museo Larco Herrera, named after the person who established the museum. Unlike the best museum in Chiclayo where no photos could be taken, this museum allows photos but no flash. It also showed stunning artifacts, the most realistic being the ones from the Mochi culture in the north that existed from about AD 100 to about AD 800. I am sure you could find photos of the museum contents on the web.
Also the garden of this museum was exquisite. One first goes through a wrought iron gate and up a path that has many colored bouganvillas along both sides, red, yellow, white, and purple. At several places there are cacti in pots, the most interesting being one called Cactus Monstruo. This entire cactus looks like the tops of some suhuaro cacti with rounded grotesque bulbous limbs.
We took a cab an spent from about 11 am to close to 4 pm in the museum eating lunch in the high quality, high cost museum cafe. My meal consisted of a delicious seafood soup. As always, Allen and Beth shared a meal.
After this museum, we walked about 20 minutes to the Museo de Antropologia ... by following a blue line on the sidewalk. We got there about 50 minutes before closing, so Beth and ALlen gave me a whirlwind tour which by that time of day was fine with me.
Then it was a cab ride back to the hotel. After resting we walked to the ocean which is about a mile from our hotel. Walking there we saw perhaps a dozen hang gliders enjoying the ocean winds. At the ocean there is a fancy shopping center with many high priced shops shops and many fast food joints and higher quality restaurants. There was the ubiquitous Mickey D, and the Colonel, but also a Hooters and a Tony Roma. We chose a Peruvian restaurant overlooking the ocean. I can´t remember what I ate, but it was enjoyable, as usual.
Afterwards it was back to the hotel to wait for Pam and Kayla.
Also the garden of this museum was exquisite. One first goes through a wrought iron gate and up a path that has many colored bouganvillas along both sides, red, yellow, white, and purple. At several places there are cacti in pots, the most interesting being one called Cactus Monstruo. This entire cactus looks like the tops of some suhuaro cacti with rounded grotesque bulbous limbs.
We took a cab an spent from about 11 am to close to 4 pm in the museum eating lunch in the high quality, high cost museum cafe. My meal consisted of a delicious seafood soup. As always, Allen and Beth shared a meal.
After this museum, we walked about 20 minutes to the Museo de Antropologia ... by following a blue line on the sidewalk. We got there about 50 minutes before closing, so Beth and ALlen gave me a whirlwind tour which by that time of day was fine with me.
Then it was a cab ride back to the hotel. After resting we walked to the ocean which is about a mile from our hotel. Walking there we saw perhaps a dozen hang gliders enjoying the ocean winds. At the ocean there is a fancy shopping center with many high priced shops shops and many fast food joints and higher quality restaurants. There was the ubiquitous Mickey D, and the Colonel, but also a Hooters and a Tony Roma. We chose a Peruvian restaurant overlooking the ocean. I can´t remember what I ate, but it was enjoyable, as usual.
Afterwards it was back to the hotel to wait for Pam and Kayla.
Wednesday, 3 June 2009
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
This was again a day of travel on a long distance bus. We ate our breakast early and got to the bus station at 7:30 a.m. for an 8 am departure.
Originally this was suppoed to be a 10 houe ride to Lima, but it took almost 13 hours because the govenment had lowered the speed limits as a measure to cut down on auto accidents.
Although the seats were comfortable and they served us a small breakfast and lunch, the ride for me was unenjoyable. They showed two movies, one of which I had seen and I really could not watch them without turning my neck to an uncomfortable position because of the position of the monitor.
In addition, the socked in sky never lifted, so I was quite glad to get off the bus and head to the hotel. We checked in and caught a quick supper at the hotel, then it was off to bed for a better day ahead.
Originally this was suppoed to be a 10 houe ride to Lima, but it took almost 13 hours because the govenment had lowered the speed limits as a measure to cut down on auto accidents.
Although the seats were comfortable and they served us a small breakfast and lunch, the ride for me was unenjoyable. They showed two movies, one of which I had seen and I really could not watch them without turning my neck to an uncomfortable position because of the position of the monitor.
In addition, the socked in sky never lifted, so I was quite glad to get off the bus and head to the hotel. We checked in and caught a quick supper at the hotel, then it was off to bed for a better day ahead.
Monday, 1 June 2009
Sunday, May 31, Still in Chiclayo
Sunday was a day of rest, sort of. In the late morning we walked to the Tour agency and paid for the next day's tour. At some point we saw a parade that featured a statue of the virgin that swayed back and forth. Then we had a nice lunch again at Hebrons Restaurant. We drank Chicha Morada, the drink I think tastes a bit like a mixture of plum and maybe pomegranate juice with a hint of cinnamin. After lunch Allen and Beth returned to the hotel to relax and take care of their colds.
I walked to and through two markets. The first, the Market Central, was like a typical market in Mexico with many small stalls on each side of narrow aisles selling all sorts of clothes, gadgets and food. The second was a larger market and was supposed to have some witch doctors (Los Bruges) that one could either buy medicines from or hire to do their magic cures, but I did not see any. So I walked back to my room and lazed around the rest of the afternoon.
In the evening we walked to restaurant featuring woodfired pizzas. We shared a vegetarian pizza and lemonade. The we returned to the hotel to prepare for an early morning getaway to the ecological reserve.
I walked to and through two markets. The first, the Market Central, was like a typical market in Mexico with many small stalls on each side of narrow aisles selling all sorts of clothes, gadgets and food. The second was a larger market and was supposed to have some witch doctors (Los Bruges) that one could either buy medicines from or hire to do their magic cures, but I did not see any. So I walked back to my room and lazed around the rest of the afternoon.
In the evening we walked to restaurant featuring woodfired pizzas. We shared a vegetarian pizza and lemonade. The we returned to the hotel to prepare for an early morning getaway to the ecological reserve.
Saturday, 30 May 2009
May 30, Saturday
We went to breakfast at 8:30 am and since the American breakfast is included in the price of the hotel we had it again. It consists of eggs, rolls, coffee or tea and juice. I am getting tired of eggs every day, but this time I was able to get them with a bit of ham and cheese, so it furnished a bit of variety. I had the papaya juice which I could drink every day. The fruit is so much more tasty here than in Corvallis.
We planned to visit two museums today if we don´t get too tired especially with Beth´s cold and Allen´s problems from the antibiotics and my infirmities in general. One is the Bruning Museum and the other is the Lord of Sipan Museum. They are about four block apart in a small town 11 km outside of Chiclayo called Leyesque or someting similar.
We walked about four blocks to a bus station and got on a van that holds about 12 passengers, the driver, and a young man who opens and closes the door and collected the ca. 40 cents from each of us for the fare. It was a chicken van,that is, it stunk of gasoline fumes, and the motor was loud and seemed like it was on its last legs, but we arrived at the two museums in the small town in about 15 minutes.
The Bruning museum showed all the different cultures in the area from about 10,000 years BCE to the Incas of the 14th and 15th century after Christ. The development of large organized societies began about the time of Christ. What was surprising to me was that the Moche, which were dominant in one area around Chiclayo from about the first to the eighth century after Christ were incredibly talented artists and craftsmen. Their ceramic works, and ornaments and jewelry they created would measure up to the finest artists of today.
Before the second museum we stopped for lunch and I had a turkey wing in a marvelous peanut flavored, mild curry sauce with rice on the side and we ordered a pitcher of that chicas morada (sp?) drink. Beth and Allen shared a great fruit salad and some meat with rice. Again, oo much food. And my turkey was a disapointment not becasue of the wonderful sauce, but I did not know I was getting a wing, and I struggled to get any meat off it.
The vast majority of the second museum, that of the Tomb of the Lord of Sipan contained the findings from that tomb and a few others, but dominated by the Lord's tomb. This tomb, discovered in 1987 rivals the finding of the King Tut tomb in Egypt in 1923, So one can say that the former is the most significant archeological discovery in the latter half of the 20th century.
This ruler lived about 1600 year ago, and from all the splendid artifacts they found buried with him, archeologists have deduced that he was one of the greatest, if not the greatest, ruler in many centuries. If you were lucky enough to see the King Tut exhibit that toured the U.S. about 30 years ago, you can get an idea of the splendor of this exhibit. The ceramics, gold, silver and copper ornaments and jewelry are bereathtaking. Photos of some of these artifacts can be seen on the following website.
And much of this would have been looted by grave robbers or taken away by the Peruvian government if the Peruvian archeologist, Walter Alve, had not taken charge and personally resisted the thieves, as well as the government.
After the two museums we were exhausted and hopped a taxi for the 7 milre ride back to the hotel for a cost of $3.33 U.S.
I mailed some postcards for all of us and we had dinner in the hotel, which was a bit more expensive, but we used a free drink coupon and Allen and I each had a Pisco Soue, which,if I have not mentioned it before, is the national drink of Peru. It was not as strong as the one I had before, but HEY, it was free,
Dinner for me was a national dish consistin fo a milky soup iith shrimp and langostino (tiny lobters). It was extremely taty, and my only hesitation to recommend it is thatit needed a wet cloth to clean the fingers, since one had to peel the langostino. Oh yes, I had a Cuscueño rubio beer.
Beth and Allen shared a mashed potato dish stuffed with chicken and other goodies, Both oor dishes are considered tradional dishes of Peru, the origin of the potato.
Then it was off to our separate rooms for R and R.
ALfredo
We planned to visit two museums today if we don´t get too tired especially with Beth´s cold and Allen´s problems from the antibiotics and my infirmities in general. One is the Bruning Museum and the other is the Lord of Sipan Museum. They are about four block apart in a small town 11 km outside of Chiclayo called Leyesque or someting similar.
We walked about four blocks to a bus station and got on a van that holds about 12 passengers, the driver, and a young man who opens and closes the door and collected the ca. 40 cents from each of us for the fare. It was a chicken van,that is, it stunk of gasoline fumes, and the motor was loud and seemed like it was on its last legs, but we arrived at the two museums in the small town in about 15 minutes.
The Bruning museum showed all the different cultures in the area from about 10,000 years BCE to the Incas of the 14th and 15th century after Christ. The development of large organized societies began about the time of Christ. What was surprising to me was that the Moche, which were dominant in one area around Chiclayo from about the first to the eighth century after Christ were incredibly talented artists and craftsmen. Their ceramic works, and ornaments and jewelry they created would measure up to the finest artists of today.
Before the second museum we stopped for lunch and I had a turkey wing in a marvelous peanut flavored, mild curry sauce with rice on the side and we ordered a pitcher of that chicas morada (sp?) drink. Beth and Allen shared a great fruit salad and some meat with rice. Again, oo much food. And my turkey was a disapointment not becasue of the wonderful sauce, but I did not know I was getting a wing, and I struggled to get any meat off it.
The vast majority of the second museum, that of the Tomb of the Lord of Sipan contained the findings from that tomb and a few others, but dominated by the Lord's tomb. This tomb, discovered in 1987 rivals the finding of the King Tut tomb in Egypt in 1923, So one can say that the former is the most significant archeological discovery in the latter half of the 20th century.
This ruler lived about 1600 year ago, and from all the splendid artifacts they found buried with him, archeologists have deduced that he was one of the greatest, if not the greatest, ruler in many centuries. If you were lucky enough to see the King Tut exhibit that toured the U.S. about 30 years ago, you can get an idea of the splendor of this exhibit. The ceramics, gold, silver and copper ornaments and jewelry are bereathtaking. Photos of some of these artifacts can be seen on the following website.
And much of this would have been looted by grave robbers or taken away by the Peruvian government if the Peruvian archeologist, Walter Alve, had not taken charge and personally resisted the thieves, as well as the government.
After the two museums we were exhausted and hopped a taxi for the 7 milre ride back to the hotel for a cost of $3.33 U.S.
I mailed some postcards for all of us and we had dinner in the hotel, which was a bit more expensive, but we used a free drink coupon and Allen and I each had a Pisco Soue, which,if I have not mentioned it before, is the national drink of Peru. It was not as strong as the one I had before, but HEY, it was free,
Dinner for me was a national dish consistin fo a milky soup iith shrimp and langostino (tiny lobters). It was extremely taty, and my only hesitation to recommend it is thatit needed a wet cloth to clean the fingers, since one had to peel the langostino. Oh yes, I had a Cuscueño rubio beer.
Beth and Allen shared a mashed potato dish stuffed with chicken and other goodies, Both oor dishes are considered tradional dishes of Peru, the origin of the potato.
Then it was off to our separate rooms for R and R.
ALfredo
Friday, 29 May 2009
May 29, Friday
Today was another travel day. We had our breakfast and prepared to go to the bus station. This time the bus was not as well appointed, but since the ride was to be only three hours we were not concerned.
We boarded shortly before leaving at 11:30 a.m and this time we went upstairs to the front seats. This gave us a panoramic view of the countryside.
Once again we passed much desert and some sad little towns made of a mixture of adobe and regular bricks, but after about an hour it began to green up which made for much more pleasant viewing. We passed fields of corn and sugar cane, and palm trees as well as other trees and bushes. Still the small towns did not appear very prosperous. They were just dusty pueblos that one might see in a western movie taking place in northern Mexico.
Then we arrived in Chiclayo, and suddenly we were in a city that could have been in southern California. The hotel was definitely one of a better class. Beth and Allen have a jacuzzi in their room, and we both have air conditioning which is welcome as the afternoon temperature climbed to about 80 degrees.
After settling in we walked about a mile to the bus station to purchase our tickets for the return to Lima on Tuesday morning. This will give us three full days in the Chiclayo area. We plan to look at more spectacular ruins and museums full of artifacts from the early civilizations in the area. Many of the treasures in the museums are the direct result of the actions of a famous archeologist, Walter Alva, who, according to Allen, personally went to the local sites with a gun to stop the looting of the tombs in the area.
On Monday we will go to an ecological reserve, where we are assured that we will see spectacled bears, the smallest of the bear family and found only in the Andes region. we should have a good chance of spotting an Andean Condor or two and many other of the 143 bird species that have been seen in the area. Althuhg there are pumas (cougars) in the reserve, they are secretive and we most likely will not catch a glimpse of them.
On our way back to the hotel we stopped at a tour agency to get information about the next three days and at the main plaza to study the city map. Then it was off to a nearby restaurant where again we feasted for the total price for the three of us of $16.00 including a generous tip.
I had spaghetti alfredo while Beth and Allen split a mixed grill of chicken, beef and chorizo with fries as well as a salad containing lettuce, tomato, cucumber and about half a large avocado. We shared our dishes so I got to taste some of their food and they had some of the spaghetti. They drank water and coke and I had my Cusceño beer, this time a "rubio" color. Rubio means blonde, but I would call it an amber ale.
Then it was back to the hotel to get set up for tomorrow. We will take a bus to two of the mussums that Allen wants to visit and will require our getting an early start.
Allen's cough is mucho mejor, that is, much better, but the antibiotics have taken another toll on his system. Hopefully a good night´s rest will help.
Now I am off to watch a bit of TV or read. Sorry, that there are no photos. Maybe Beth can show me how to upload a couple mañana.
We boarded shortly before leaving at 11:30 a.m and this time we went upstairs to the front seats. This gave us a panoramic view of the countryside.
Once again we passed much desert and some sad little towns made of a mixture of adobe and regular bricks, but after about an hour it began to green up which made for much more pleasant viewing. We passed fields of corn and sugar cane, and palm trees as well as other trees and bushes. Still the small towns did not appear very prosperous. They were just dusty pueblos that one might see in a western movie taking place in northern Mexico.
Then we arrived in Chiclayo, and suddenly we were in a city that could have been in southern California. The hotel was definitely one of a better class. Beth and Allen have a jacuzzi in their room, and we both have air conditioning which is welcome as the afternoon temperature climbed to about 80 degrees.
After settling in we walked about a mile to the bus station to purchase our tickets for the return to Lima on Tuesday morning. This will give us three full days in the Chiclayo area. We plan to look at more spectacular ruins and museums full of artifacts from the early civilizations in the area. Many of the treasures in the museums are the direct result of the actions of a famous archeologist, Walter Alva, who, according to Allen, personally went to the local sites with a gun to stop the looting of the tombs in the area.
On Monday we will go to an ecological reserve, where we are assured that we will see spectacled bears, the smallest of the bear family and found only in the Andes region. we should have a good chance of spotting an Andean Condor or two and many other of the 143 bird species that have been seen in the area. Althuhg there are pumas (cougars) in the reserve, they are secretive and we most likely will not catch a glimpse of them.
On our way back to the hotel we stopped at a tour agency to get information about the next three days and at the main plaza to study the city map. Then it was off to a nearby restaurant where again we feasted for the total price for the three of us of $16.00 including a generous tip.
I had spaghetti alfredo while Beth and Allen split a mixed grill of chicken, beef and chorizo with fries as well as a salad containing lettuce, tomato, cucumber and about half a large avocado. We shared our dishes so I got to taste some of their food and they had some of the spaghetti. They drank water and coke and I had my Cusceño beer, this time a "rubio" color. Rubio means blonde, but I would call it an amber ale.
Then it was back to the hotel to get set up for tomorrow. We will take a bus to two of the mussums that Allen wants to visit and will require our getting an early start.
Allen's cough is mucho mejor, that is, much better, but the antibiotics have taken another toll on his system. Hopefully a good night´s rest will help.
Now I am off to watch a bit of TV or read. Sorry, that there are no photos. Maybe Beth can show me how to upload a couple mañana.
Thursday, 28 May 2009
May 28, Trujillo
Another day starting with the same breakfast at 9:00 a.m. After our meal we walked about four blocks to a bus station to buy our tickets for the 3-1/2 hour, northward ride to Chiclaya.
After returning to the hotel and reading a bit, we went to lunch where again we had the menu of the day. I had fish la plancha, with a broccoli cake (very yummy) and rice and french fries. Of course, I added a beer from Cusco called Cusqueña. This brand comes in different darknesses and I tried the dark one this time. Dessert was a pudding with a bit of chocolate on top all for under $7.00 with tip.
After lunch we went to our rooms to wait for our guide. Just before 2:00 p.m. he showed up with a fancy van and we were off to the Temples of the Sun and of the Moon. These are actually called Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna are located a few kilometers south of Trujillo at the foot of Cerra Blanca (White Mountain)next to a tributary of the Moche River, named after the people who built them 1700 years previously.
It is difficult to describe these two immense structures 200 yweards apart separated by a level, open plain. The more interesting structure is Huaca de la Luna, in part, because the excavation has revealed incredibly beautiful friezes in relief with many still colored vividly. It was built from 140 million adobe bricks, and while some of it has been destroyed and looted over the centuries, excavations continue to expose more beautiful artifacts.
Evidence shows the sacrifice of large numbers of individuals at thee Huaca de la Luna. At one event, most likely connected to a very destructive El Niño, at least 34 adult males were sacrificed. They seened to do a lot of decapitation, as there are many depictions of someone, part god and part human, referred to by our guide as the "Decapitater."
The open space between the two temples showed evidence of a high level of manufacturing and industrial activity and a high population density.
After quite a bit of walking and the taking of a multitude of photos, we retunred to our hotel for a bit of a rest. I lay down and heard music outside. I thought it might be a parade, but I was too tired to rise for about one-half hour, so I listened in a state of half sleep. Since the music continued, I finally went to the front desk to ask aout it and was told that we were next door to a music college, and the band was practicing. Back in my room I read a bit more, and then we headed out for a bit of dinner. This time I ordered a small chorizo sandwich amd a beer for about $2.80 total. Allen and Beth split a club sandwich for about $4.00.
Afterwards they returned to the hotel and I walked to the main plaza (Plaza del Armes)hoping to find some music or other entertainment. But the plaza was quiet, so I walked back to the hotel, stopping in a couple of shops to look at the wares being sold.
Finally I wrote this blog and will now head up to pack and read a bit. I tried to add a photo or two, but I was not able to since Beth has retired and the room is quiet -- no coughing by Allen.
After returning to the hotel and reading a bit, we went to lunch where again we had the menu of the day. I had fish la plancha, with a broccoli cake (very yummy) and rice and french fries. Of course, I added a beer from Cusco called Cusqueña. This brand comes in different darknesses and I tried the dark one this time. Dessert was a pudding with a bit of chocolate on top all for under $7.00 with tip.
After lunch we went to our rooms to wait for our guide. Just before 2:00 p.m. he showed up with a fancy van and we were off to the Temples of the Sun and of the Moon. These are actually called Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna are located a few kilometers south of Trujillo at the foot of Cerra Blanca (White Mountain)next to a tributary of the Moche River, named after the people who built them 1700 years previously.
It is difficult to describe these two immense structures 200 yweards apart separated by a level, open plain. The more interesting structure is Huaca de la Luna, in part, because the excavation has revealed incredibly beautiful friezes in relief with many still colored vividly. It was built from 140 million adobe bricks, and while some of it has been destroyed and looted over the centuries, excavations continue to expose more beautiful artifacts.
Evidence shows the sacrifice of large numbers of individuals at thee Huaca de la Luna. At one event, most likely connected to a very destructive El Niño, at least 34 adult males were sacrificed. They seened to do a lot of decapitation, as there are many depictions of someone, part god and part human, referred to by our guide as the "Decapitater."The open space between the two temples showed evidence of a high level of manufacturing and industrial activity and a high population density.
After quite a bit of walking and the taking of a multitude of photos, we retunred to our hotel for a bit of a rest. I lay down and heard music outside. I thought it might be a parade, but I was too tired to rise for about one-half hour, so I listened in a state of half sleep. Since the music continued, I finally went to the front desk to ask aout it and was told that we were next door to a music college, and the band was practicing. Back in my room I read a bit more, and then we headed out for a bit of dinner. This time I ordered a small chorizo sandwich amd a beer for about $2.80 total. Allen and Beth split a club sandwich for about $4.00.
Afterwards they returned to the hotel and I walked to the main plaza (Plaza del Armes)hoping to find some music or other entertainment. But the plaza was quiet, so I walked back to the hotel, stopping in a couple of shops to look at the wares being sold.
Finally I wrote this blog and will now head up to pack and read a bit. I tried to add a photo or two, but I was not able to since Beth has retired and the room is quiet -- no coughing by Allen.
Wednesday, 27 May 2009
May 27, Trujillo
I woke up today in a pretty good mood. The three of us had our usual breakfast of scrambled eggs, pineapple juice, rolls with butter and marmelade and coffee.
After breakfast, Allen went back to the doctor whilc Beth and I walked to the Archeological Museum. A young man at the museum entrance asked if we wanted a guide, but Beth's Spanish, with a bit of help from my dictionary got us through very nicely.
We learned about a number of cultures, the most important being the Mochi, the Chimu and the Inca. The Mochi ceramics were as fine as any produced today by accomplished artists. We also saw some dioramas and models of Chan Chan, the largest prehispanic city in the new world.
Afterwards we picked up Allen aand went to lunch. We all ordered an exquisite soup of creamed flounder, and I got an avocado salad with an entire huge avocado which we shared while they ordered some chicken which we also shared. We split a pitcher of a drink called chicha morada which seemed to taste a bit like plums but with other freuity tastes also. It was quite yummy. My entire cost for the lunch with tip wa about $7.00
After lunch we were picked up by a guide from Trujillo Tours and first taken to the Rainbow Temple. The drive through the city was difficult for me because of the excessive pollution to the point I had to wear my charcoal mask the entire time and still by the end of the day my chest was sore from breathing the filth in the air, primarily ozone. The Temple which covered at least a city block was quite impresive with its several levels, and wall decorations of sea otters, and other creatures in relief. We reached the top level by a combination of steps and ramps, where we saw a sacrifical alter.
Next we went to Chan Chan. This city, built around the year 1400 by the Chimu, and consisting of 140 million bricks, was awe inspiring in its gegraphic scope and complexity. The small part we saw had nine palaces, storage rooms, wells, burial places and much more. Although a great deal of the structures have been worn away by periodic floods and rains resulting from the periodic El Ninos, the remains still inspire awe, with some walls 30 feet high and 8 feet thick and decorated with friezes in relief. We probably walked about a mile through some of the city, but I think the guide said that the ciy covered an area of 20 square kilometers in its heyday so there was much more to it, and much of it has yeat to be excavated.
After Chan Chan we drove to an ocean vilage where we saw several dozen reed fishing boats standing on end in the sand next to the street. These boats which are the size of a kayak can be built in a couple of hours and last about a month before they become too waterlogged and are discarded. Fishermen often go out a couple of miles into the ocean on these boats which to me seems quite dangerous, but I guess they have been doing it this way for a thousand years or maybe much longer. I was not sure of the time they were first used.
After this tour we returned to the Karianka Hotel for a bit of a rest and then went out for a simple dinner. It turned out that the hamburgers we ordered were immense, and along with that Beth ordered some fruit salad in yogurt which we shared. Then we returned to the hotel to await the morrow when we will take another tour, this time to the Temples of the Sun and Moon.
After breakfast, Allen went back to the doctor whilc Beth and I walked to the Archeological Museum. A young man at the museum entrance asked if we wanted a guide, but Beth's Spanish, with a bit of help from my dictionary got us through very nicely.
We learned about a number of cultures, the most important being the Mochi, the Chimu and the Inca. The Mochi ceramics were as fine as any produced today by accomplished artists. We also saw some dioramas and models of Chan Chan, the largest prehispanic city in the new world.
Afterwards we picked up Allen aand went to lunch. We all ordered an exquisite soup of creamed flounder, and I got an avocado salad with an entire huge avocado which we shared while they ordered some chicken which we also shared. We split a pitcher of a drink called chicha morada which seemed to taste a bit like plums but with other freuity tastes also. It was quite yummy. My entire cost for the lunch with tip wa about $7.00
After lunch we were picked up by a guide from Trujillo Tours and first taken to the Rainbow Temple. The drive through the city was difficult for me because of the excessive pollution to the point I had to wear my charcoal mask the entire time and still by the end of the day my chest was sore from breathing the filth in the air, primarily ozone. The Temple which covered at least a city block was quite impresive with its several levels, and wall decorations of sea otters, and other creatures in relief. We reached the top level by a combination of steps and ramps, where we saw a sacrifical alter.
Next we went to Chan Chan. This city, built around the year 1400 by the Chimu, and consisting of 140 million bricks, was awe inspiring in its gegraphic scope and complexity. The small part we saw had nine palaces, storage rooms, wells, burial places and much more. Although a great deal of the structures have been worn away by periodic floods and rains resulting from the periodic El Ninos, the remains still inspire awe, with some walls 30 feet high and 8 feet thick and decorated with friezes in relief. We probably walked about a mile through some of the city, but I think the guide said that the ciy covered an area of 20 square kilometers in its heyday so there was much more to it, and much of it has yeat to be excavated.
After Chan Chan we drove to an ocean vilage where we saw several dozen reed fishing boats standing on end in the sand next to the street. These boats which are the size of a kayak can be built in a couple of hours and last about a month before they become too waterlogged and are discarded. Fishermen often go out a couple of miles into the ocean on these boats which to me seems quite dangerous, but I guess they have been doing it this way for a thousand years or maybe much longer. I was not sure of the time they were first used.
After this tour we returned to the Karianka Hotel for a bit of a rest and then went out for a simple dinner. It turned out that the hamburgers we ordered were immense, and along with that Beth ordered some fruit salad in yogurt which we shared. Then we returned to the hotel to await the morrow when we will take another tour, this time to the Temples of the Sun and Moon.
Tuesday, 26 May 2009
Tuesday, May 26 in Trujillo
I woke up feeling refreshed, and after the morning ablutions met Allen and Beth for a delicious breakfast in our hotel (Karianka). I had pineapple juice, coffee, rolls with butter and marmelade, and scrambled eggs.
Allen had not slept well and was still coughing, so he went to the doctor while Beth and I walked around town looking for the office of Trujillo Tours. After a few wrong turns we found the office and got the information we needed to arrange tours for the next day or two.
We returned to the hotel to find Allen lying down- He had been given three prescriptions by the doc, and was relaxing. I went to my room with his Lonely Planet guide book and chose three possible restaurants. We walked about two blocks to one where I had a Pisco drink (Pisco is the national liquor of Peru and is about 84% alohol.) I then ordered the menu of the day which was both very tasty and cheap. First a salad with avacado, then chicken with rice nicely flavored and a dessert with pears and apple juice.
Allen returned to the hotel and relaxed while Beth and I searched for the Archeological Museum.
Unfortunately the museum was closing for the day, so we wandered to the main plaza and then returned to the hotel.
After a bit of a rest, Beth and I went to the El Carmen Monasterywhich was suposed to have 150 paintings and was supposed to be open. It was closed for restoration due to a 1970 eathquake, but we were let in and given a tour by a nice young man and were able to view part of the collection as well as the church proper.
From there we headed toward the cathedral, stopping in the courtyard of the bishop´s palace, and then on to the cathedral and its museum on the main palza (Plaza del Armes) but again we were not able to see the museum, but we did go through the church. Much of the architecture wa baroque to the nth degree. It was all very beautiful.
It s now about 6 pm and getting dark. I am not sure what we will do for supper. Let´s wait and see.
Allen had not slept well and was still coughing, so he went to the doctor while Beth and I walked around town looking for the office of Trujillo Tours. After a few wrong turns we found the office and got the information we needed to arrange tours for the next day or two.
We returned to the hotel to find Allen lying down- He had been given three prescriptions by the doc, and was relaxing. I went to my room with his Lonely Planet guide book and chose three possible restaurants. We walked about two blocks to one where I had a Pisco drink (Pisco is the national liquor of Peru and is about 84% alohol.) I then ordered the menu of the day which was both very tasty and cheap. First a salad with avacado, then chicken with rice nicely flavored and a dessert with pears and apple juice.
Allen returned to the hotel and relaxed while Beth and I searched for the Archeological Museum.
Unfortunately the museum was closing for the day, so we wandered to the main plaza and then returned to the hotel.
After a bit of a rest, Beth and I went to the El Carmen Monasterywhich was suposed to have 150 paintings and was supposed to be open. It was closed for restoration due to a 1970 eathquake, but we were let in and given a tour by a nice young man and were able to view part of the collection as well as the church proper.
From there we headed toward the cathedral, stopping in the courtyard of the bishop´s palace, and then on to the cathedral and its museum on the main palza (Plaza del Armes) but again we were not able to see the museum, but we did go through the church. Much of the architecture wa baroque to the nth degree. It was all very beautiful.
It s now about 6 pm and getting dark. I am not sure what we will do for supper. Let´s wait and see.
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